Introduced at SIHH 2017 as a limited edition of 1,000 pieces, reference PAM00685 recreates the historic Ref. 3646 prototypes supplied to the Italian Navy in the late 1930s. The twelve-sided bezel bears the engraved text "OFFICINE PANERAI - BREVETTATO," referencing the military patent for the radium-based luminous compound that enabled underwater legibility.
The 47mm stainless steel cushion case features removable wire loop lugs, a domed Plexiglas crystal, and a black sandwich dial with vintage-toned luminous cutouts. Inside, the manual-wind Calibre P.3000 operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour and utilizes two mainspring barrels to deliver a three-day power reserve.
Panerai was founded in Florence as a watch retailer and then transitioned into manufacturing high-precision instruments for the Royal Italian Navy during World War II. This origin as a military supplier is the foundational truth of the brand, dictating a design philosophy rooted in absolute function over ornamentation. Its most significant early innovations were solutions to military problems, namely the development of patented radium-based (Radiomir) and later tritium-based (Luminor) luminescent compounds to ensure underwater legibility for naval commandos.
After its public debut in 1993 and subsequent acquisition by the Richemont group, Panerai transitioned from classified military secret to a global pillar of the luxury sports watch category. Its legacy is that of a tool watch whose function-first design created one of the most distinct and influential silhouettes in modern watchmaking.
Overall Grade: 8 / 10 | Great Condition, Visible Wear Production: 2017 Contents: Full-set Genre: Dive Watch
Size: 47mm Thickness: approx. 16mm Lug Width: approx. 26mm
Case: Stainless steel, mirrored sides and lugs, visible wear Bezel: Scalloped fixed bezel, satin finish, visible wear Dial: Black matte, sandwich dial, cutout markers, lumed Hands: Gilt pencil hands with luminous fill
Crown: Onion-shaped screw-down crown, visible wear Crystal: Dome, plexiglass crystal, visible wear Bracelet: Brown calfskin strap with pin buckle, visible wear Caseback: Stainless steel, exhibition caseback, screw-on, visible wear Movement: Manual Wind Caliber: P.3000